VietBlog

Everyone jumped out of their seats screaming while rushing to the right side of the bus to catch a glimpse out the window. There, in full view of the bus, was a giant elephant wearing sandals standing on a street corner, right outside a café. We had only just gotten off the boat and onto the bus five minutes before. We were in Phnom Penh.

Photo courtesy of Katie Denton.

Even though we were in the same part of the globe as Vietnam and only 5 hours down river from where we had been staying a week earlier (the equivalent of Washington DC to Morgantown), we were in a different land. There was a new language to be learned, new greetings, and a new culture.

Rescued girls at an NGO practicing traditional Khmer dance.

Daily specials for Friends Restaurant written in Khmer and English.

A week earlier in the workshops we were discussing dating rituals during one of Jim Keim’s discussions. The Vietnamese and Cambodian students were talking about going to meet the family of either the boy or the girl. One side met the boy’s family, the other the girl. There was raucous laughter from both sides, while we American students sat confused. Obviously, through the realms of translation and cultural differences, we lost the meaning. But the point was they were two separate cultures, however similar they seemed to us.

Cambodia was a dream come true for the journalist in me. There were English-language newspapers everywhere we went. At the time, big protests were happening throughout Phnom Penh over a visit from the Thai Prime Minister. It is even the location of the FCC, or the Foreign Correspondent Club. And everything was newsworthy. But that is not necessarily a good thing. Newsworthy means corruption, poverty, social issues.

The atmosphere in Cambodia was different from Vietnam. While both countries are considered developing, Vietnam focused more on commerce and business, while Cambodia’s economy was geared towards tourists. That is because there were tons of tourists in Cambodia, especially in Siem Reap. People came from all over Asia: China, Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, Laos, Japan, India, Sri Lanka, and Indonesia. And then there were the westerners. Way more than you would see in Vietnam. They were from as many places as the Asian tourists were from – North America, Australia, and Europe. Remnants of past French occupation were present in both countries. However, while Vietnam seemed to grow more independent from its western-dominated past, Cambodia seemed to still be struggling with it. In Cambodia the American dollar is preferred to the Riel. English is just as common as Khmer. And the new dominating force is NGOs, rather than colonists.

One night at a café in Phnom Penh, we ran into a master student from the University of Maryland, named Ben. Ben worked for an NGO that provided economic development. What his NGO did was go into small, poverty-ridden villages throughout Cambodia to promote sustainable economic practices. Without any help from natives, they were supposed to go into these villages and convince villagers to change their livelihoods in order to convert gatherers and farmers into beekeepers who produce honey. The one major flaw was even though honey is a renewable resource; there is not much of a market for it in Asia. However, because the NGO had already procured funds for honey production, they were stuck with it –whether or not there was a possibility of failing. When we inquired how Ben felt about this, he said he didn’t have many feelings about it. Rather, he was hoping to see some elephants and tigers.

While Ben’s story may or may not be true, it illustrates the conflict of NGOs in Cambodia. While there are many successful NGOs, including the ones we visited, such as Friends and COSECAM, there are plenty more unsuccessful NGOs. And the ones that fail ultimately hurt the people trying to help. Stories of corrupt NGOs littered papers. Everywhere you went in Cambodia, you were faced with an NGO.

But why so many NGOs? Because of the tourism. And with the tourism came the “other” tourism. Sex tourism, brothels and nightclubs, drug abuse all stemmed from the tourists. It was not uncommon to walk down the street and see young prostitutes or old, white men accompanying two sixteen year old girls. But the question is, should tourism stop because of these issues?

Cambodia recently suffered a massive genocide during the 1970s. The country was pretty much closed off to the rest of the world until the 1990s. Under Pol Pot’s regime, over a third of the population was massacred. When visiting the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (otherwise known as S21 Prison), instruments of torture remain as evidence to the horrors that took place. This instability continues to affect Cambodia today, with rampant poverty, unstable government, and excessive landmines littering the countryside.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.

Despite all these drawbacks, Cambodia possesses something else. When touring the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda of Phnom Penh or exploring the magnificent ruins of Angkor Wat, you know Khmer culture is unique. The language is beautiful, closely resembling Thai and Hindi. The countryside is gorgeous, with breathtaking architecture and tropical landscapes. And the people are resilient and strong, yet generous and kind.

Royal Palace, Phnom Penh.

A Buddhist monk perched on the back of a motorbike in the heart of Phnom Penh.

Bakheng Hill Temple, Siem Reap during sunset.

Lonely Planet Video – Angkor Wat

Many of our friends made on the trip were Cambodian social workers. Some of the most amazing locations we visited were during our one week spent there. The food, culture, and openness of the people are something everyone should experience once in their life.

Cambodia still has many challenges to overcome. But that does not mean ii doesn’t have many strengths to draw from. Some of the most selfless and awe-inspiring people I have met in my life are Cambodian social workers. And if I were to ever travel back, it would not be for the newsworthiness of the country, but rather because I enjoy spending time there so much.

Example of traditional architecture, Royal Palace.

Girl in traditional Khmer dress at Bayon Temple, Siem Reap.

A monk outside Banteay Srei Temple.